Are you tired of cold starts? Need to raise the throttle everyday to get the cold engine running?
Does someone have the same bike as yours and are you tired of losing to him in drag races?
Suddenly, the fuel efficiency has reduced after a service?
Has the mechanic has screwed up your tuning?
Engine gives hiccups when you open the throttle?
Or your bike is just missing that smooth acceleration whenever you want?
Or your engine overheats even if you did not race too much.
May be the following will help you in tuning your mean machine for optimal power delivery and best fuel economy. This guide aims at tuning the fuel/air screw to give you an optimal air-fuel mixture. An optimal mixture gets maximum performance from your machine.
Getting The Basics
I am assuming that you know driving very well and have completed at least 1000kms on road. If not, then you are too amateur to read this guide.
Every bike has a engine (motor/mill/muscle) and a carburetor (breathing system/heart) ;) – Yeah I know that. My point is, I assume that your engine is in perfect condition. That is, there is no oil leaking from it etc etc.. The next assumption is that your engine is not DEAD. You know where your engine is and where your carb is ;) and you have a screw driver/blunt knife with you. Your machine must have finished at least one service ~500kms or more. Also make sure you do not change the fuel type while tuning i.e. Power, Speed, Extra premium, normal unleaded etc.
This Guide Applies To
All the single cylinder bikes, 2 stroke or 4 stroke having a carburetor. Tachometer is very handy and a must for a newbie or the tuning process will be very slow or painful or imperfect.
Disclaimer: Though whatever I have written here wont do any damage to your machine, finally you must not blame me for whatever happens. I am here to help if anything goes wrong.